Merino Battle: Icebreaker vs Smartwool vs Minus 33
It’s easy to become a merino wool addict. I’ve yet to find another fabric that is as versatile and as cozy during all seasons. As sturdy and body-friendly during all kinds of ultra intensive outdoor activities.
Going back to cotton or even standard wool is like eating cold leftover pizza.
Icebreaker, Smartwool and Minus33 are The Big Three in the merino wool universe.
Minus33 crews are extremely sturdy and warm. Icebreaker teesΒ win the Cozy, Yet Stylish awards.
Smartwool? Well,Β Smartwool’s PhD socks are the best for both daily commutes or active hiking.
So, the big question:
Icebreaker vs Smartwool vs Minus33 β is one better than the others?
Which one will make you feel like this guy right here:

Let me start with an important note. Only a few months ago, Icebreaker got acquired by VF Corporation (original press release).
You know who else is in VF’s portfolio?
If you raised a hand with a ‘Smartwool!’, you’re right. So technically those brands are now under the same corporate umbrella.
Look, these three brands aren’t cheap.
However, my very first merino wool purchase (a semi-cheap Uniqlo bought in central Tokyo) has been collecting dust ever since my ‘merino upgrade’ π

Let me share my impressions on the leading merino wool brands with you, along with some recommendations.
Icebreaker vs Smartwool vs Minus33:
So where’s the difference?
If you’re concerned about quality, scratch that off your list. All three brands are top of the top when it comes to merino wool products.
In fact, there’s not that much tangible difference in the quality.
However, there are some specific things about each one of them – at least from my point of view.
Icebreaker clothing: Definitely a bigger amount of slim fits. Interesting designs, more elegant and stylish. You can wear some of their base layers (cool T-shirts!) to nightclubs even! Can’t say the same for the more boring Smartwool or Minus33 tees.
Smartwool clothing: Very fine merino wool, even though it might not feel as soft as Icebreaker. Amazing quality of the seams, a definite plus. Also, PhD socks β they’re simply the best.
Minus33 clothing: Durability is definitely their forte. Yukon crew represent, some darn tough base layer here.
Clothing is a bit more tightly woven and great for ultra harsh winter conditions. Think of expeditions in really freezing corners of the earth. This all comes with a price, as Minus33s can feel a bit heavier.
Pricewise, I feel Smartwool are the most expensive.
The usual standard is that all these 3 brands’ merino wool is sourced from New Zealand. Why? Because NZ produces the best one in the whole world π

Are their product lines the same?
There’s definitely a bit of variation, but generally you will find them offering clothing for all layers and of various weight. Needless to say, their essentials will be made of 90%+ merino wool without saving on the fabric and its quality.
If you’re not familiar with the merino wool basics, here’s a quick guide.
First come the layers:
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Base layer
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Mid layer
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Insulating layer
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Outer shell layer
Each layer can vary in weight. Usually, base layers can be either lightweight, or ultra lightweight a.k.a. Microweight. The latter is 150 m/2 like Smartwool’s 150 line.
But usually, a lot of base layer merino wool clothes are 200 m/2 in terms of weight.
Mid layers are also known as the three season wear: early spring, late in the fall, and winter. They range from 230 to 260 m/2. Lots of insulating layers are around the same.
As expected, outer shells a.k.a. Jackets are heavyweight. A good rule of thumb is 380 m/2 weight of the fabric, but you can find many exceptions.

Any recommendations?
Definitely! Of course, I encourage you to shop around on your own too. All 3 brands run their own storefronts on Amazon, with prices usually being a bit lower than their own sites.
Luckily, the storefronts are neatly organized. I especially like the layout of Minus33’s one:
So, going back to the recommendations…
For base layer T-shirts:
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Definite favorite: Icebreaker’s graphic tees
For socks:
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Definite favorite: Smartwool PhDs for walking around the city.
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For hiking, Minus33 Hiker socks
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Alternatively, Icebreaker’s crew socks
For bottoms:
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Minus33 leggings are definitely the best choice for women
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For men, Icebreakers are a bit more convenient than Smartwool’s offer here
All three brands have a good collection of underwear items too. As I’ve noted in my guide to hot weather underwear, though, I’m mainly sticking to Under Armour now.
If you’re not looking for ultra thin liners, Minus33 has this slightly bulkier pair that will keep you warm with an outstanding portion of 90% merino wool.
Do they have enough variety: men’s, women’s, kids?
Icebreaker definitely have the biggest women’s collection, in my opinion. They also have quite a few products for kids, which can’t be said for Minus33 and Smartwool’s storefronts.
Generally, some of the merino wool clothing all of the brands offer can be easily viewed as unisex too. Obviously, that doesn’t apply for the underwear!
Concluding thoughts
There really isn’t a wrong choice here. However, as I noted in my concise comparison above, while all these 3 brands offer similar quality and rely on the fine comfort of merino wool, there are some subtle differences.
I’m quite curious to find about your own impressions, actually – for those who have owned clothing from any of the brands. Please let me know in the comments below.
In any case, the real beauty lies in the fact that both Icebreaker, Smartwool and Minus33 give you an access to a wondrous world:
The world of merino wool, the cozies clothing material you can find on Earth!
Ex-digital nomad, DIY enthusiast and an appreciator of cozy foot wear. Always ready to give lifestyle tips for men. Tea, not coffee is my fuel for writing.
I have had and extensively worn the Denali Expedition Full Zip for 8 years now. I have been extremely impressed with its durability and it has never pilled after washing. The sleeve cuffs, with the thumb loops, have been very handy but are now thrashed from years of slight snags on various pieces of Velcro. I just ordered a new Denali and also asked if there was a way to get just the replacement sleeve cuffs so I can repair my current one, and then have both looking good. I also have 2 pair of the Katmai Men’s Bottoms. They also have been very durable over the last 8 years. They get more use and more washings so they seem to be getting thinner. I have definitely gotten my moneys worth from the garments!
Hey Mark!
Great to hear about the Denali — I myself haven’t owned that one (yet!), but one of my buddies who roams the outdoors like a madman swears by it too.
When I was younger, I was willing to compromise on price in many cases. I’m way more conservative now — and in the merino wool category, it’s either high quality products, or nothing!
Thanks for sharing your story!
Greg
Thanks for putting this guide together. I’ve only had one wool baselayer…and then I realized that it had become my go-to. So now I’m looking into other wool products and am a bit overwhelmed- this post really was helpful.
Have you tried the patagonia capliene air?
Hey there, Pat! I’m happy that you found the post valuable!
Neither me, nor Kate have tried the Capliene Air. π Looking at reputable review sites like OutdoorGearLab, I see that they have evaluated it around the same as Smartwool or Icebreaker base layers.
Honestly, I think as long as you stick to the big brands, layers should be similar in terms of quality/performance. What I find different is the actual catalogue of products brands have. Some have less variety, while others cover almost everything under the sun for both genders and kids.
You remind me that I haven’t shopped around for some supplementary Patagonia stuff. Will see if they will have any spring/summer sales!
You mentioned your base layer is wool? If it’s not merino, literally anything you get from the big brands will feel like magic!
I was hoping to have some input about the fair treatment of the sheep these products are made from, after seeing a horrific story awhile ago about mulesing, an inhumane treatment I cannot even begin to describe. Any good source for that information?
No, sorry.
Want to mention Darn Tough socks. Their Merino wool line lives up to the name, are warm, and comfy. I wear them daily and have some that are 7-8 years old. Have yet to wear out a pair. I think they might outlive me!
I have seen some sites say the source of their wool, the sheep, have been treated humanely. But I cannot remember the brand or source. But many sheep farmers are not muscling sheep any more. There are many sheep videos on YouTube that show the care that goes into sheep.